Tuesday, August 20, 2013

World Wise Schools--Final Edition!


If you’ve been following our communications with students from Zambian and American middle schools, we thought we’d send you the last edition.  Most of the American students have moved on to high school, and the Zambian students are now in their term break.  Here are just a handful:

Dear Zambian Student,
I am 14 years old  I speak Spanish and English, and a bit of Japanese.  I’m in 8th grade, getting real close to going to high school.  On January 14 I am going to be 15 years old.  Which are your favorite things to do for fun? I like to listen to music, and sing a long.  I love singing.  I also like to swim and be active.  What is your favorite color?  Mine is Green and purple.  I like light colors they are pretty.  When is your birthday? If it’s close Happy Early birthday, or late birthday J  Do you have a radio?  Do you like school?  I do.  In my Avid class we are writing to you, we are also going to send another box of supplies  I hope you enjoy it, have a nice day.

Dear Zambian Student,
I am your new penpal.  How are you? Do you like music? Because I love music.  Do you like dancing?  Because I love dancing hip-hop.  Wel I am 14 years old and I have 2 sisters and 2 brothers including me and I am the second youngest, first comes my sister then come me.  Do you like dogs or cats?  I love dogs.  My favorite sport is volleyball and then comes basketball.  I also enjoy football I like throwing the football to my friend it’s pretty fun.  It’s very nice to meet you.  Hope you have a great day over their.

Dear Zambian Student,
I am 13 about to be 14 in June.  Whats your birthday and how old are you?  What’s your favorite color?  What do you like to do for fun?  And why do you like it?  Do you have any sisters or brothers?  Do you like school?  If you do whats your favorite subject? What’s your favorite sport? What grade are you in?  What languages do you know or speak?  What’s your favorite fruit?  Do you like music if you do what kind and who and what are your favorite songs too?
My favorite color is orang and purple as you can see I’m writing in purple ink.  I like to cook and watch or babysit kids.  I like kids and I like to be in a kitchen.  I have 4 brothers and one sister.  I like school my favorite subject is math.  My favorite sport is football I know what you’re thinking a girl that likes football but yes I do like to play football I also like baseball, and softball.  I am in 8th grade going into 9th grade.  I know English and a little bit of Spanish so like 1 ½ I know.  My favorite fruit is apple, mangoes, and oranges.  I like music I like hip hop & rap and a little country Usher, Michael Jackson, Perry band, and Alicia Keys.  Beat it, If I die young, No more, and Oh my God these are all songs I like.  My favorite food is Chinease food (asian chicken) But I hope you like this letter I wrote.


Dear American Student,
How are you?  I’m here to reply to this letter for you.  I hope God wish you and thank you to reply again this letter.  Which favorite sports would want palay and enjoy any time in America, but me in Zambia my favorite sport is football.  There any sport that you want?  I have 4 brother and 2 sister.  My mom is not at home at this moment and I hope that wen God wish us you can come to Zambia to see Zambia this is Zambia.  Wen I get a chance I can come to see America I like America.  My parent born in Zambia and stay in Zambia we call Zambian my parents also got marred.  So I was born in Zambia and I obey my father and mom but that doesn’t mean have blonde hair.  I

Dear American Student,
I am fine thank you for remembering me.  I am in Grade 9 I have 16 years old.  I am person who speak three language.  I like to speak English, and Lunda.I like fruits like mango is that also you like, guavas, tangerines, and oranges.  I have my fourverite subject and my fourverite food which I like, and my difficult subject.  My favorite subject is science, history and English.  My difficult subject is Religious education.  And I like to playing football and pool table.  Thak you for remember us.  In my mind I don’t forget you ever were you go.  I think you know my name.

Dear American Student,
I am 15 years old.  I am in grade nine (9) at basic school nest year I am going to grade ten.  My favorite things which I want to do is sing a song in church choir every Sundays because Tuesday I am at school.  I love singing the Song of God.  And I also like to swim but I don’t know how to swim in the river.  I using the dish if I want to swim.  My favorite color is RED.  In my village we don’t have radio because we don’t have money which I want to buy.  I like school very much.  We would like to thank the students at Washington Middle Schools for the books, pencils and supplies.

Dear American Student,
My birthday is 19th August.  I have 16 years old my favorite color is blue and black I like white color yey I have sisters and brothers.  I like school because educated is a good ideas.  My favorite subject in school is Religious education.  My favorite sport is football.  The time in moment am grade 9 but nex year in grade 10.  My language is Lunda but to school speaking or using English.  My favorite fruit is mango, mabula and so on.  My favorite songs is gospels.  My favorite food is isima, rice and so on.  My favorite color is black as you can see I am writing in black color ink.  My favorite sport is football because I am a footballer in my basic school.  I am a Captain.  God bless you.  I hope you like this letter I wrote.

Thursday, July 18, 2013

A Week in Village Life: June Edition


Yes, another week in village life edition since they seem to be popular.  The next one of these will probably be the last week in our village :(

Monday, 24 June: Toilet Inspections and Bread

I woke before dawn to hear Morsi, our biggest black rooster crowing under a full moon.  When the first light came, all the other 15 chickens started chirping for food, and luckily Scott got ou tin the cold to feed them all and I got a rare morning of sleeping in until 7am under a warm blanket. 

When I finally got out of the cozy cocoon, the outdoor thermometer read 48 degrees farenheit, but I could see my breath in the cool morning as I trudged across the street to check the neighbors’ goat milking progress.  These particular neighbors had four female goats, all in the early stages of pregnancy, so they weren’t milking yet.  Two of the more aggressive ones were bucking others off the stand, so I taught about sensitization to people, putting on collars, and building a small house to separate the kids when they are born. 

I went back to do a little sweeping of our outside yard, but Scott beat me to it—I was very grateful because outdoor sweeping is something a Lunda man would never do.  He spent the rest of the morning going with the locals to find dry grass to repair our garden fence.  I decided to spend the morning making bread, but because we were low on white flour, I used a combination of local incredients to mix with the flour: mashed sweet potatoes, soaked finger millet, and pounded fermented cassava flour.  I crossed my fingers to see how it would turn out!

I spent the rest of my morning and bought a local daily calling plan so I didn’t use all of my pre-paid talk time to talk to people from Peace Corps as well as counterparts at the district level to make plans for the week.  It took a good morning in phone tag since typical Zambian cell phones don’t come with voice mail. 

Lunch consisted of crackers and jam, and then I met Francis, a community health worker who would help me conduct toilet inspections.  Francis wasn’t there, but I found two traditional birth attendants just outside of the local birthing house.  One brought a woman from her local village to the clinic to deliver and the birth had gone successfully at 8pm last night, and another who walked 8+ miles of bush trails with two women from her village for almost a week just to help them deliver in the clinic.  The sick patients were lined up all the way around the door, and both the in-charge nurse and paid employee were out, so the clinic volunteer was doing the best he could do to triage the patients without access to the pharmacy.

Finally the community health worker showed up and we walked over the bridge across the river which was way down in dry season, less than a foot deep.  We saw women washing dishes and children bathing as we walked up the hill on the other side of the river.  We started at the very edge of his headman’s area and started asking various family compounds if we could look at their toilets as part of a water and sanitation initiative.  Those with a roof, a lid, and evidence of ash with a latrine at least 2 meters deep would get a women’s or girls’ dress (handmade by my Aunt Joan)!  The pit latrine holes are dug with a handmade hoe or shovel, and are not easy to dig, but if done right can last a family several seasons.  A good thatch roof keeps out the rains so the planks don’t deteriorate during the rainy season, risking someone to fall in.  The ash acts as a disinfectant and to keep the smells down, and the cover keeps the flies out.  If the chimbushi (pit latrine) is built correctly, the family has a lower chance of going in the bush and infecting other households with potentially deadly diarrhea.  Francis helped me explain to each family leader that this is why we are giving rewards to those compounds that have built a proper toilet.  Out of the 18 or so households we investigated, 5 (only some of the requirements) had partial toilets and 6 had toilets with all the requirements . . . much better than the 3/20 from yesterday.  Since Francis and I were both thirsty and parched from all the walking in the sun, I bought him some bananas and we walked back to the clinic.

On my bike ride home from the clinic, I saw a huge bunch of over 30 bananas and bought it for 3 kwacha (about 60 cents) because I knew we’d be having Peace Corps visitors tomorrow.  Scott was out measuring a villagers’ pond, so I took a solar shower while the outside air was still warm and sunny.  My feet were so dirty from all the walking I had to scrub them with a brush.  The neighbor kids came over asking to do their usual chores at 17:00 and I had two young girls sweep out our outdoor kitchen and sweep a path in the dirt all the way to our outdoor toilet before they got their stickers and pipe cleaners.  I made a curry sauce with cabbage, canned fish, and peanut butter.  The bread dough had risen, so I had confidence my experiment just might turn out. 

Scott came back just as I was putting the first loaf in a cast iron pot over hot coals.  Each loaf took about an hour and we chatted with our neighbors Ryvus and Ryford as we watched dusk turn to night and then the nearly full moon rise.   They asked about how long it takes for someone to reach the moon by spaceship, and we said we thought about a week, although few people have done it and some have even died trying.  We talked about which types of things came from trees, and they were surprised and fascinated to learn that paper and cardboard came from trees.  They also asked if someone wanted to get to America, how much money it would cost to go there.  We had to explain that even if someone had a lot of money, they might not get into America since our government has put restrictions on people coming in since the 9/11 attacks.  They seemed to understand, but it still seemed like a hard thing to say for being in a program like Peace Corps where we’re supposed to share American values.  When one of the loaves was done, I took some hot bread to a different neighbor’s compound who were sitting around the fire and they were all surprised and delighted.


Tuesday, 25 June: Peace Corps x3

I woke to our hens clucking for food, but not the rooster . . . maybe he knew something was up.  I carefully let all the females and chicks out while Morsi stayed on the cage.  It was again cold enough to see my breath and the thermometer registered 45 degrees.  We didn’t have any goat-milking visits scheduled this morning, so we could prepare for the Peace Corps cruiser visit.  Scott gave our thirsty garden a deep soaking with the leftover soapy water from the dishes and bathing. 

The first Peace Corps cruiser rolled in around 8:30, which was strange because we thought both of our visitors were coming in the same cruiser between 11 and 12, so good thing I was home and not milking goats somewhere.  It was Dorothy from the Peace Corps office, visiting everyone with Peace Corps grants.  Since I had written a grant for the HIV drama camp, she wanted to visit site to see follow-up from the program.  Unfortunately, my good English-speaking visitor who participated in the program was at the fields (Dorothy doesn’t speak Lunda), but she did meet a newer Lunda speaker from our drama group.  I showed her some pictures of the programs, and we also talked about a livestock program we were running that was started by a grant from a previous volunteer.  She was interested in seeing our neighbors’ goat milking cages/stands, and how they could be fabricated using bush materials.  She was excited about the program and encouraged volunteers from all provinces to attend this year’s livestock training.  She said the 2nd cruiser with Scott’s visitor would be arriving sometime in the afternoon.

Scott and some neighborhood kids helped with the daunting task of filling our large metal drum with water from the open well across the road.  The kids pulled the water up with a jerrycan-turned-bucket attached to a heavily worn rope while Scott and I took turns cycling buckets to the drum next to our garden.  The water was an opaquely grey color with little floaties in the top, so we use Chlorin to treat it before using as bath or dishwater.  Luckily there is a spring about 1km away where we can fetch our drinking water.  For their efforts, the children received gummy bear vitamins.  The second morning chore involved making chicken-manure tea . . . if it sounds gross, that’s because it is.  You take dried manure and put it in a breathable maize sack, soak the sack in a covered bucket of water for 4-7 days, and voila, you get terrible-smelling organic fertilizer for your garden.  I did one application last week and the plants really liked it, so I thought I’d start another one.  Tan, the English-speaking drama-group leader came by later to apologize that he “missed” Peace Corps, but I explained they came much earlier than expected.  I shared the photos and an action plan for future HIV education events in our village. 

We had a quick lunch of peanut butter and bananas just before the second Peace Corps cruiser came with staff wanting to talk to Scott about his fish farming projects.  In the meantime, I went with our regional coordinator in the cruiser to a place 9 kilometers up the road that might be a good potential health volunteer site.  Back at site, Scott showed the Lusaka staff his farmers’ fish ponds and our goat milking stands and had some of his fish farmers meet with the staff.  He had a one-on-one meeting where his boss complimented me for being a supportive wife.

While Scott finished the meeting, I prepared for the four newest Peace Corps volunteers who were planning on cycling over to our site to hang out with us that evening.  I had told my host mother earlier in the day that she could help process the rooster and she was so excited that she came by three times before we were ready to kill it.  While I was peeling sweet potatoes and chopping vegetables for a crowd, another older neighbor ran by our outdoor kitchen asking if they could use one of our chairs to strap to the back of the bicycle as a makeshift ambulance to send a feverish young woman 3.5k to the clinic down the road.  I said I couldn’t because Scott’s boss was coming back from the fish pond visit, but I did go over to see the sick woman who looked like she had malaria or some other sort of tropical fever.  Although I couldn’t offer the chair, I quickly mixed up some kool-aid like juice and put it in a bottle for her to bring to the clinic.  I asked why they didn’t take her in the morning when the clinic was actually open, but no one could give me an answer.

It was almost dusk, and our 3rd batch of Peace Corps guests (this time fellow volunteers without the luxury of a cruiser) still hadn’t arrived by bicycle.   I texted one of them and she said they were still about 45 min. away and probably wouldn’t arrive until dark.  Amaama Judith came over and I held Morsi the rooster’s legs while Scott cut its head off with a freshly sharpened knife.  We waited for it to bleed out as it went through convulsions for a minute or so before surrendering into the red earth.  I was proud of myself for not being too squeamish and helped Judith pluck the feathers, but busied myself with washing dishes as she did the dirty work of cutting out the organs and guts.  She was absolutely delighted that we gave her family the head feet, liver, heart, kidneys and anything else non-muscular that Zambians considered edible.  She knew exactly where to cut the pieces at the joints and we placed them directly into the boiling curry soup water. 

Our guests finally found our hut in the full moon, although only Dan, Katie, and Travis showed up since the other one decided he lived too far.  Katie explained the delay by saying she got caught up building a mud brick wall inside her house.  The chicken was mostly cooked by the time they arrived, and Scott shredded it off the bones and put the small pieces back into the soup.  We also added pumpkin and tomatoes and rice that our visitors brought to make it into a curried stew.  Scott cooked pumpkin bread into a cast iron skillet for dessert.  As we listened to new music on Dan’s ipod, we stayed up past the circles of chatting Zambian neighbors enjoying good food and company.


Wednesday 26 June: A Lion Cancels the Plans

We had a bit of a late wake-up due to staying up with visitors last night, two slept in our tent while Travis slept in the main room of our hut since it was too cold out to sleep in his camping hammock.  Scott fed the chickens, and we started the brazier to re-heat leftover breakfast: leftover stew, pumpkin bread, and fried sweet potatoes, even though we were still very full from the night before.After breakfast, we gave the other volunteers a tour of our garden and we gave Dan some lemongrass and pepper starts. 

I rode to the clinic while Scott and others went to the BOMA.  The plan was to go with the daily worker to help weigh and vaccinate some children in a remote village.  When I arrived, the in-charge was out, and the daily worker we couldn’t go because we heard word yesterday that there had been a lion spotted killing over 20 cattle in the area.  I knew this man was prone to exaggeration, and that he probably just didn’t want to cycle all the way to the outreach site, so I asked a few more people at the clinic.  They said the lion was much further north, but I couldn’t do outreach without the clinic worker, so I had the afternoon free.  I went around back to the labor rooms and there were two brand new babies.  I happened to have my camera, so I took pictures of the babies and their proud mothers.  I then cycled over the river so give the Peace Corps application to the community that the cruiser passed by the next day.  I told them that this was just a request and I definitely couldn’t promise a volunteer, but they were excited anyway.

I cycled home and used the remaining daylight to do half a load of laundry by hand.  Unfortunately, the BBC on our shortwave had cut programming hours during the middle of the day, so all I had to listen to were Zambia songs in Bemba, a language I do not understand. 

Just before dusk, I transplanted some lettuce starts that seemed to be doing well, and a group of children gathered around the fence wanting to help work in exchange for gummi vitamins.  I had already promised some work to some girls who were in school that afternoon, so unfortunately I had to keep telling them to go home.  Finally just before dusk some schoolgirls came over, so I had them gather a bag of leaves and dried grass for garden mulch.  I then took a fast solar shower as the air was quickly cooling down with darkness approaching.

Just as Scott was approaching on his bicycle from the BOMA, four of the cutest village boys ages 2-4 came strolled over with linked hands wanting to read a story.  Even though it was getting dark, I couldn’t say “no,” so they sat in stools in our outdoor kitchen and we read a fuzzy caterpillar book. 

Scott and I re-heated leftover stew on the spirit stove inside the hut and he recounted his trip to the BOMA.  He had met with the vet and some other government officials in Mwinilunga and played cards with some of the Peace Corps at an nshima restaurant.  He even brought home a treat—fresh milk and guava jam!


 Thursday 6 June: Bush Fires and Growing Babies

I woke up early to soak the garden with 6 buckets of greywater leftover from our bath and dishwater, and then spent some time putting the straw that the children collected for me on the new transplants.  The chickens had been sneaking in and pushing it off, but the mulch was badly needed to preserve our precious water to evaporations.  I also swept manure from under the chickens’ night shelter so it could go to the garden rather than the sheep and filled the solar shower.  To take advantage of the full sun, I put bananas and guava paste on a drying rack where they could preserve into yummy dried fruit snacks.

After all the chores, I started packing my bike for an all-day journey to another outreach site where I would do follow-ups for a child nutrition program that ended in late January.  I packed my bike panniers with the scale (pretty much the same as a meat scale), vinyl harness and notes from January as well as the toilet inspection book.  Unfortunately, I forgot the dresses as a reward.  Kenneth, the clinic volunteer me at the junction of the road and the bush path and told me to continue 500m on the road to great the in-charge nurse at the clinic.  Although he was very busy, I wanted to touch base regarding upcoming programs. 

Together we took a dry, sandy bike ride nearly 10k through flood plains interspersed with forests and cassava fields.  We arrived before noon and lots of women whose children we were supposed to be weighing were doing dishes and bathing their children in the stream.  They didn’t look like they were mobilized for the child weighing, but everyone seemed to know it was happening.  The village nutrition volunteers consisting of 3 women and 3 men showed up at an empty church, and since the mothers hadn’t come for a weighing yet, we took the time to teach about the toilet inspection program and all 4 things needed for a proper toilet.  The nutrition volunteers helped me scour the village, including the headman’s house for a proper toilet, but only found three (coincidentally all at houses of the volunteers).  Other villagers were educated about what to do to complete their toilets, including making a thatched roof to keep the rains out in the rainy season and prevent the planks from eroding to the point of someone sinking in.

Finally the mothers came trickling in the mud brick church building and we weighed the children while nutrition volunteers gave a health talk of what mothers could feed their children during the dry season—at this point there were more sweet potatoes and maize but less green vegetables available.  In the end, 8 of 9 of the original mothers arrived, which was good attendance since the program ended 5 months ago.  Of those, six of the children gained enough weight to bring them out of the malnourished category, and the mothers were very proud.  Kenneth gave some parting nutritional advice, and then the grateful mothers sang us a thank-you song. 

We left the mud church and went to go look at the last completed toilet at a health volunteer’s house.  He was so proud that he had finished the thatch roof last week, but unfortunately within the course of 2 hours weighing children, his entire straw roof as well as the grass bathing shelter had burnt down from a farmers’ land-clearing bush fire.  We had seen the fires going on during the weighing, but he seemed to think that they weren’t near his house.  I saw the remains of the fresh thatch now blackened and gave him the benefit of the doubt by putting his name on the list for a toilet. 

The head nutrition volunteer told me to come to her house at the top of a hill so I could take nshima (gooey pasty staple eaten with meat or vegetables) with the clinic worker.  I went to see her cooking in the small brick kitchen building over a 3 log fire and offered to help, but she responded in Lunda, “rest, you are tired.”  As the men sat in a thatched chota talking of manly things in Lunda, I sat on the side of the hill and watched 4-5 fires burning in the distance.  The sun was near the horizon and reflecting on a fish pond, and I remembered journaling another time at this same picturesque scene.    Finally Keneth and I were invited into the house while Grace poured warm water over our hands in preparation for eating nshima with our hands.  The pasty cassava meal was served with beans and small dried fish fried in oil and salt.  During the meal, I asked Kenneth why there were so many fires near the houses (fairly far from the main fields), and he said it was to keep the area clear for snakes as well as clear land to look for bush rats to eat.  Finally it clicked that I’d seen lots of children roasting rats lately.

I cycled home at dusk, and Kenneth and I parted ways on the bush path.  I took a lukewarm solar shower and Scott had a fresh garden salad ready, although I could only eat a little since I still had a big nshima lump in my belly.  Ryvus and Ryford came over at night and I told them I wanted to record their story on my recorder, so we outlined what they would say starting tomorrow.



Friday 28 June: Bush Rats and Furry Potatoes

In the morning, I woke up early and rode 9 kilometers to the furthest goat milker’s very early in the morning to see how they were doing.  I donned my fleece jacket, synthetic down vest, full-length gloves and lined pants, and it reminded me of the early morning commute to work in Yakima.  I found the health volunteer in the area sitting with the headman and other highly respected men, and she said that hers had quit producing as well as the neighbors’ goats.  Unfortunately this has been the case with all the goat milkers within the past few weeks due to a combination of little grazing foliage in the dry season and many of the goats becoming pregnant again.   I gave her a community agreement for a replacement volunteer and she was interested in talking to the community.

On my ride home, it warmed up enough to remove a few layers, and Scott had hot tea ready, which was a treat.  Just as I was finishing the tea, Ryford came with a small covered pot that had a hunk of some sort of meat in gravy sauce.  At first it looked a little like chicken, but on further inspection, I realized it was a bush rat as I saw its little white teeth sticking out!  It wasn’t at all furry, but Ryford said he already had burned the hair off.  I asked if his mother used some of the curry powder I gave them last night to add flavor for their dishes (and  to cut the exorbitant amounts of salt they use), and he said yes.  We had just eaten, so Scott wanted to save and reheat some for an early dinner, and I said I’d try a tiny bite. 

Scott was busy prepping for the grand finale of his ELITE program, working with the school to teach leadership and some football (soccer) activities.  The plan was to give a second education session re: HIV/AIDS and add up cumulative points to see which team was the winner.  They had previously been divided into 4 teams: Chelsea, South Africa, Barcelona, and Arsenal.  We first went over the ABC’s of prevention (abstinence, being faithful, and condom usage) to explain what level of HIV protection each prevention strategy offered.  Teams got points for contributing the correct answers.  Then, we played a matching game on the wall and the same game on the soccer pitch where they had to perform a relay race.  The good news was that ¾ of the teams got most of the matches right, so hopefully they retained something about HIV. 

Giving prizes to the members of the various teams was quite a spectacle as Scott added cumulative points.  The second place team Barcelona got pens and pencils, courtesy of WA Middle School who we partner with, and they had to line up at the door of the room when they got them to know who had received the prizes.  Chelsea came in first, and they got to draw from a “mystery bag” including items from the free bag bin from Peace Corps volunteers who had left, including a mirror, hair clips, an umbrella, used shoes, and a flannel shirt.  Some items were more popular than others, but all the winners were very excited to put their hands in the mystery bag to see which prize they received. 

While Scott finished with the head teacher, I quickly cycled to the clinic to touch base with my in-charge about tomorrow’s meeting.  While I was there, 30+ women were still waiting to be seen to have their children weighed, since it was the last Friday of the month somewhere 100 women had walked several miles to the clinic with babies on their backs.  The women had been waiting all day and most didn’t carry any food or water with them (most Lundas don’t) to give as a snack to their already malnourished children.  I was a little sorry that the school program kept me from helping with the scale.  I had a toilet inspection program in the village, so I couldn’t stay to help, but on the way out near the anthill, some women were selling purple fuzzy potatoes that I had never seen before. 

On the bike ride home, schoolchildren from the winning teams were walking proudly with their prizes, and some even thanked me for the shoes.  I ate a quick very late lunch of bananas and peanut butter, fed the chickens and waited for our local health volunteer Pardon to come by my house for the toilet program.  He wasn’t there, so I went back to the clinic because I forgot something, and by the time I arrived again at our mud house, Pardon was there. 

While we finished inspecting toilets in our village, Scott boiled and peeled fuzzy potatoes and made yummy white white beans with rosemary and dill.  We even ate fresh pineapple grown in our neighbors’ fields for dessert!  A little later, I started the first part of recording Ryvus and Ryford’s interviews about their childhood growing up in a different village and moving here as teenagers.


Saturday 29 June: Saving a Life

I did the typical morning chores and then spent the morning preparing for a malaria training I’d be giving to the community health workers at the clinic.  I dug out test kits that Peace Corps gave us for training from under our bed and found some other informational materials to use for the training.  Scott and I had a hot breakfast of French toast and pineapple, which put me a little behind the 8am meeting time at the clinic, but I  hoped the other clinic workers would also be on “Zam time.”

I finally arrived at the clinic a little past 9 and did the usual greetings with the traditional birth attendants in the birthing house and female family members of the women  awaiting labor.  The women told me that the in-charge (also trained as a midwife) Joe and traditional birth attendant Hilda were in the labor room.  I gently knocked on the door and the women ensured me I could go in the birthing room while they waited outside.  I felt a little timid, but Joe told me that the baby would be coming in the next 30 minutes and that I should put on some gloves to help with the birth.  Although I had seen multiple births in the village and in the clinic, I had never been with a trained midwife and was excited to see his expertise.  Hilda gently but with an elder’s expertise talked the new 18 year-old mother through each contraction.  Joe pulled the woman’s skin back and showed me where the head was in the birth canal while the teenage mother held her own knees in her elbows in an uncomfortable-looking frog position.  She didn’t make a sound, except an occasional wince to go along with the grimace on her face during each contraction. 

The radio played local music in the background and Joe nonchalantly coaxed the mother to breathe as he occasionally peeled the skin back to check for progress of the head.  I offered my hand on the mother’s foot as a foothold for pushing so she didn’t have to hold her legs with her elbows.  Finally came the big moment where the head and body came out with two big pushes from the mother without so much as a sound from her.  The head was face down, and there wasn’t a peep from the baby either.  Joe quickly laid the baby face down on the mother’s stomach while he clamped and then cut the cord, and the baby girl was still not making a sound as he picked her up with gloved hands and examined the chest for breaths.  There were still no movements or breaths.  Time stood still and I flashed back to this previous scene that I witnessed just months before where a baby was born like this and the helpless birth attendant was unable to add any medical guidance—that baby died the night after its birth.

Joe laid the small girl face up below the mother and retrieved the plastic suction tube and miniature bag valve mask from a nearby drawer (several months ago we didn’t even have one at the clinic!).  He knew time was ticking, but seamlessly and gracefully suctioned the baby’s nose and mouth while the three of us women in the room took a deep breath.  He then placed the bag valve mask entirely over the little girl’s face and gave her 5 quick pumps of air with his hand.  Images of my infant CPR class flashed through my head.  All three of us gently massaged the baby’s skin on the back and tummy to get the blood circulating.  Joe did the suction again, the mask again and finally we heard two little grunts coming from the infant, although still no crying.  Her small chest started moving up and down and we all breathed a sigh of relief.

Joe examined the child and quickly wrapped her in 5 blankets (not a joke) to keep her warm and stated she was still too weak to start sucking her mother’s milk.  I peeked under all the layers of blankets, and indeed she was still breathing.  Joe and Hilda then started working on the placenta, gently massaging the mother’s belly so it would come out intact.  Finally the afterbirth arrived along with a trickle of bright red blood.  Joe showed me how to inspect the placenta so there were no pieces left inside the mother as well as the vaginal walls for signs of tearing.  Miraculously (especially for a first-time mother), there was no tearing. 

I helped sanitize the equipment in bleach water while Joe wrote the birthing report and Hilda helped the new mother bathe in a nearby bucket of water (no running water in the clinic).  Joe showed me the Apgar scores table, and marked a 3 for the baby’s first minute of life, which moved to a 6 after she had been resuscitated.  I couldn’t believe my eyes and help but think that if I were 10 years younger, I just might be interested in studying midwifery.  Joes methodical, deliberate ease (paired with a year of specialized technical training) had indeed made the difference between life and death for this child. 

I went out to fetch more wash water from the nearby borehole and told the female relatives that it was a girl, in which there were hoots of celebration.  I pulled a few women aside, including another traditional birth attendant, and explained that we are lucky the family took this one to the clinic—had she been born in the village she would have died. 

I cleaned myself and prepared to wing-it for the malaria training since most of the health workers were already there (it was well past 10:00am).  The little baby under the makeshift incubator of 5 blankets and asked if she was ready to go to her mother to feed.  We made sure the mother was lying comfortably in the resting room and wrapped the small infant skin-to-skin around her mother.  Although she didn’t start sucking right away, she was sleeping soundly with weak breaths and Joe said she was very tired from the birth and resuscitation.  He assured me she would start sucking soon.

I had to shift gears quickly from ecstatic observer to teacher mode as the community health workers gathered around a large desk (makeshift table) in the main clinic building.  I wrote the schedule on a large paper and per Joe’s request, we did some health planning activities before the malaria in-service.  We mostly discussed what everyone thought were health problems in the area and activities we could do over the next year to address them.  We then reviewed how to do simple pinprick blood tests for malaria and some of the health workers practiced testing each other.  We talked about the importance of testing in the field, especially those health workers who live far from the health center because malaria can be life-threatening if not quickly tested and treated in the field.  The workers had lots of good questions regarding medications and treatment.

We took a late lunch break and ate maize nshima (easier on the tummy and not so gummy) and fried kapenta fish.  After lunch, some of the health workers went to get drinking water from the diphole by the river, even though we have a covered borehole just near the clinic.  I was a little worried that health workers all thought river water was “cleaner” than borehole water, so I made an impromptu matching game of the most contaminated to least contaminated water sources .  They ranked as a group different sources such as spring, shallow well coming from a river, borehole, river and swamp, and after much deliberation, it was finally agreed that a borehole was indeed much safer to drink from, even though it might look “dirty” from iron specks coming from the water passing through that part of the water table.

We learned a bit more about malaria, including picture prevention books they could use to tell stories to villagers who couldn’t read, and then had a general housekeeping for other things related to the clinic.  Around 16:00, the health workers started getting anxious to leave, mostly because they saw there was music and dancing just outside the clinic.  The people said it was a wedding party. 

I stopped by the labor ward and the female relatives of the mother wanted me to name the child.  Although I had named six boys, I had never named a girl, so I called her “Genevieve” after my maternal grandmother.  The villagers had a bit of difficulty with pronunciation, so they called her “Vivi” for short. 

Back at home, Scot had heated water for a refreshing bucket bath, and because the coals on the brazier were hot, I had my goal at no bake cookies since we happened to have extra cocoa and sugar in the hut.  Unfortunately that experiment failed miserably and it turned out into more of a chocolate toffee.  Even though I was exhausted for the day, I did part 2 of the interviews with Ryvus and Ryford where we learned all about Ryford’s village wedding.  He was very excited for me to bring his story to America.

Yep . . . sometimes working on Saturdays aren’t all that bad!!!
 

Saturday, July 13, 2013

Things we'll miss and NOT miss about Zambia

So Scott and I just got back from our close of service conference, where we learned about the preparations we'll have to make for leaving in October.  It was also a nice time to reflect back about some of the high and low points of Zambia, and one thing realized is that we'll miss Zambia dearly, but at least we'll have 3 more months!   Scott and I came up with most of these things, with a little help from our Peace Corps friends:

Things we’ll miss:
-          Sweet potatoes, pumpkin, fresh avocadoes, bananas and pineapples
-          Clouds in a million different patterns
-          People saying you’ve gained weight and truly meaning it as a compliment
-          Our pit latrine . . . don’t ask
-          Blaring red sun sinking into the evening sky
-          Evening nights reading by candlelight
-          A wide array of Zambian greens
-          Gardening in January, and February, and March
-          Extremely flexible work hours and self-directed work
-          Wearing totally mismatched clothes with no one batting an eye
-          Not having bills
-          Watching kids being born and grow up
-          Being called by name while riding your bike 20k away
-          People not knowing who the latest pop star is
-          Children asking to do work in exchange for gummi vitamins
-          Random, spontaneous dancing and singing
-          Amazing mountain bush bike rides as a commute to work
-          Living simply
-          Reading for pleasure
-          Other Peace Corps volunteers
-          Natural sleep cycles
-          Weather  between 45-85 degrees where the sun shines every day, even in the rainy season
-          Breakfast with Scott (of fresh chicken eggs) in the outdoor gazebo
-          Sitting on cowhide stools to chat with neighbors
-          A sense of fulfillment after doing laundry by hand for 2 hours
-          Wearing Chacos to work
-          Being home in the middle of the day most days
-          Colorful chitenge cloth
-          Working with your spouse on joint projects
-          Strong women carrying things on their heads
-          Natural light while working
-          Pounding food with a huge wooden mortar and pestle
-          Thunderstorms

Things we will NOT miss:
-          Bike break downs in the middle of the bush
-          People staring
-          Solwezi Dust
-          “Hey white girl, wanna marry me?”
-          Government officials talking around the issues instead of trying to fix them
-          “Chindelli (white person), how are you, how are you, how are you?”
-          Walking on what you thought was a sidewalk that turns into an open sewer
-          Price inflation based on the color of one’s skin
-          The smell of burning plastic
-          Mobs instead of lines
-          “We are suffering”
-          Two people living in a 2-room hut
-          Witchcraft disguised by jealousy toward one’s neighbors
-          Lack of urban planning
-          Zamlish

The lists could go on, but clearly there are FAR more things we’ll miss about this amazing country that most Americans can’t even find on a map.  Thanks to Peace Corps and a country of welcoming people.  We’ll miss you Zambia! 


Saturday, July 6, 2013

Inspirational Traveler Award

Our amazing friend Evon has been traveling for almost a year now, and has given us an "inspirational traveler award" on her blog.  Click here to learn about other awesome travel blogs that have inspired Evon and others to get out of their comfort zones.

http://evonlagrou.com/2013/06/29/inspirational-travelor/


Friday, July 5, 2013

The Toughest Job You'll Ever Love (Gina's Post)



 So yeah, it’s a cliché probably dating back from 1960’s recruitment campaigns, but when people ask me how I feel going home to the American workforce I think it sums up my Peace Corps experience in a nutshell.  Don’t get me wrong . . . I loved so much about the six years I had as an occupational therapist at various clinics, hospitals and nursing homes before I went into Peace Corps and I have every intention of going back for the sheer love of helping people better their lives.  But, there was something about the push for productivity, the endless learning of new computer programs, the ever-changing insurance reimbursement policies, cryptic billing codes and the unexpected late hours to catch up on paperwork that somehow turned even the simplest tasks in our world of medicine into a headache that causes an entire nation to doubt the efficiency of a modern but far too complicated medical system.

Don’t get me wrong . . . Zambia’s state of medicine is nothing to write home about . .  . in fact I’ve seen more preventable deaths here than I’ve seen in my entire life in the American medical system.  But being able to work at the grassroots level to help create changes within a community has been profoundly rewarding.  Whether it be helping a family adopt a simple hand-washing station by their pit latrine or weighing a baby who just crossed the threshold from malnourished to normal or personally witnessing a newborn baby being resuscitated at the clinic using a bag valve mask where a year prior she would have been born (and most likely died) in a mud hut has by leaps and bounds re-affirmed my confidence the ability to make a change on the most basic level.

So yeah, if I was scared to leave my cushy job with benefits and labor laws for the unknowns of the African bush, I’m even more scared to return to a world of computer screens, fluorescent lights, lawsuits, ultra-strict germ control and federal regulations complicated enough to have to take a yearly test.  Gone will be the days of giving informal health talks to a group of people sitting on reed mats in an outdoor shelter or cycling 15 kilometers crossing a washed-out bush bridge to reach a village that is unreachable by road, only to be greeted by a crowd of mothers eager to have their children weighed and vaccinated.  Gone will be the attitude that we start a program when the people get there.  Gone will be the humble gesture of making the health providers a lunch of beans and nshima even though it means the family will eat a little less that night.  Gone will be the self-directed work and supervisory visits by the big boss once a year . . . if at all and the straightforward tracking using pen and paper.

So as I prepare to trade in my Chaco sandals and biking capris covered in a chitenge cloth for “casual dress” attire and a Smartphone, I’m hoping that in some little way I can bring a piece of the toughest but best job ever back to the American workplace.

Wednesday, June 12, 2013

The Oasis of El Dorado



Solwezi was kindly dubbed recently by the Peace Corps Zambia security officers as the “El Dorado” of Zambia due to its boom town atmosphere; uncontrolled growth rates mixed with a complete lack of urban planning that lead to a dust-ridden conglomeration of Zambian tribes and immigrants from Congo and other sub-saharan nations squatting in shantytowns hoping to make it rich from the recent mining boom.  The savory assortment of people apparently lends itself to higher crime rates, as well as increased congestion and pollution.

That said, there’s a little oasis in the center of it all . . . a place where everyone knows your name.  A place Scott and I travel over 400 km to from our quaint forested village to access WiFi, an amazing book/video/DVD collection, and a taste of modernity with the sometimes-working hot shower and oven.  It’s a place where you hear accents from the Midwest to the Deep South to small towns on the East Coast and everywhere in between, and it’s perfectly okay to talk fast American English without feeling culturally insensitive.  It’s perfectly okay to sport flip flops and jeans by day and costumes of gangsta rappers or fairy princesses (depending on the occasion) at night.  It’s at this very special place where you can have a 3-course community dinner one evening and potato chips and garden vegetables the next.  Ideas grow, bonds form, people ponder the future and the meaning of life more than almost anywhere in Real America, except possibly a college dorm room.  Board games spiral into bets on whether the group will  watch re-runs of “Sex in the City” (no TV stations here) or stay in and dance to 80’s music in the lower house while gracefully playing some rendition of ping-pong that involves dozens of red plastic cups.  Walking dogs involves braving the dusty roads of El Dorado with wide-eyed locals move all the way to the other side of the road to let you pass and throwing sticks at the stray mutts while fending off marriage propositions.  Singing bad karaoke to “I Wanna Dance With Somebody” and actually dancing with somebody who you just met five months ago but now doesn’t mind if you belt it out in their ear and then crash on their lap.  Living in a land of backpack cubbies and personal belongings cubbies and individual food cubbies and bunk beds gracefully strewn with mosquito nets.  Expletives, complaints, and compliments are thrown around with equal force like multiple flavors of candy at parades.  Late-night crunches to finish the latest Peace Corps quarterly electronic report just in time for the power to go out rendering the wireless router ineffective just before hitting the “send” button, but that’s okay because this is Africa and there’s always tomorrow.  Slip ‘n slide on the back lawn on a hot day and bonfires on a chilly evening.  Saying goodbye twice a years to people moving on with the next stages in their lives.  Finding treasure like a solar shower, water filter, sweet chitenge pants, or a bottle of shampoo that the last group of volunteers didn’t have room to bring home.  Spending endless hours staring at walls decorated with hand-painted murals, quotes about the meaning of life and incriminating photos.  Did I mention dancing?  Opening up and sharing secrets of the past, fears for the future, and tears for the present day’s frustrations.  Cooking Mac ‘n cheese, fajitas, pumpkin bread and brownies where people actually can appreciate that you just paid twice as much for processed cheese or chocolate than you ever would in America.  Congolese beers and South African Ciders, gin and tonics with a lime removed from the outside tree with a large bamboo pole—how many tries did that take?  Hot tea with on cold June mornings and iced tea on the back porch while learning that your nearest neighbor just spent the last 6 hours in the back of a broken cantor truck on the side of the road.  But now it’s no problem because you’re both at the oasis and all you can do is laugh about and curse Zambia at the same time.  Meetings about village events and how to mobilize youth and wow . . . maybe I can get my women’s club to sell chitenge purses just like my awesome Peace Corps neighbors.  How we can change the world one person at a time by supporting libraries, education, health care and farming on a good day and learning together that maybe the biggest part of the world that needs to be changed is our own expectations and perceptions.  Less-heady conversations about farts and sex and the inevitable GI illnesses and what kind of Iphone just came out in America anyway?  Will we even be able to use one of those things when we go back?

Yes, in the same oasis I’ve laughed until I’ve literally peed my pants and cried on a person’s shoulder who was a complete stranger just months prior.  I’ve tripped over people’s stuff thrown around the floor, lost many of my own personal items in “the abyss” and handwashed more dishes than I ever thought possible.  I’ve talked to, cooked with, clashed with, shared clothes with and cuddled with the 30+ people who also use this house and can’t hesitate for more than even a second to now call my friends.  Yeah, call it a frat or a cult, and definitely leaps and bounds from the life a 30-something married professional woman was living just 2 short years ago, but the oasis of El Dorado is a place I’m happy to call my home . . . at least a few days a month.  And When I go back to Real America, along with the village life and travel stories, I’ll carry home memories of the Oasis of El Dorado that will live forever in the Peace Corps friends I’ve made here.