Friday, November 15, 2013

An African Traveler's Dream (Scott's)


Gina posted about bus travel in Zambia some time ago.  Bus travel in Ethiopia was marginally better.  Now, contrast that to bus travel in Thailand.  The first thing one notices is that the bus stations are real-deal bus hubs, with bus platforms and food courts, clean bathrooms (but you still have to pay for their use),  TV’s with news and music videos and commercials featuring bright red shiny tractors, and ticket booths with computers and price lists.  The bus stations in Zambia were little more than dirt patches surrounded by tin sheet and concrete shacks. 

Now get on the bus.  In our case that was about 8:45 pm for a 9 pm start time.  Instead of 5 seats across (3 seats and 2 seats with an aisle in the middle) there are 3 seats (2 seats and 1 seat separated by an aisle) in about the same width of bus that boasts clearly that it is 15 meters long.  These are similar to first class airplane seats.  There is a bathroom on the bus (which turned out not to be a great thing by the end of the trip after it got used), personal TVs installed in the seat in front of you complete with movies, videos, tourist attractions, games (yay Sudoku!), fully reclining seats, pillows, blankets, and headphones in the seat pocket.  




The bus starts off on time.  The bus doesn’t swerve every few minutes to avoid potholes, goats, or children in the road.  You get a little box of convenience foods and bottled water delivered to your seat shortly after starting off.  There is a 36-inch TV in front of the bus with announcements about what to expect on your bus ride, followed by Thai music videos, and then turns off around midnight to let those who want to sleep to do so while others continue to be entertained by their personal TV.  Half-way through the trip there is a half-hour stop where you actually have time to go the bathroom AND get something to eat, which can be paid for with your bus ticket meal voucher, no extra charge!  When you get off the bus to stretch you don’t get hassled by three guys trying to sell you a taxi ride, sunglasses, or some disgusting meat product in an open plastic bag.  You DO have many different food options in a clean food court and no one hardly takes notice of you unless you ask them a question, at which time they become very serious in their effort to try to help you using hand gestures and pointing since no one knows English.  After you get back on the bus which you are actually looking forward to doing because it’s so comfortable and there is on-bus entertainment and have finished your snack that the bus service has already paid for, the bus attendant gives you ANOTHER drink, this time hot sweet tea.  After getting tired of your on-bus entertainment you can recline your chair into almost horizontal and actually sleep a bit after you cozy up with your flannel blanket and satin neck pillow. 

At sun up, about 9 hours after the bus started, the TV comes back on with a quiet pop-thai-music video and then a friendly announcement about how you are about to arrive at your destination and to be sure to collect all your belongings and get your luggage ticket out to collect your checked baggage.  This all comes to you for about the same price as a similar length trip in Zambia, about $30 US dollars.  By comparison the Zambia bus is about 10% of the comfort of the Thai bus and 200% the hassle.  Gina told me afterward that she was reading how the bus service in Thailand is subsidized by the government.  That explained the comfort and service to a point, but for a traveler from Africa I had to wonder why Zambia couldn’t organize a bus service at least 50% of the value of the Thailand bus, even without subsidization.  Gasoline is more expensive in Zambia, close to $2 US dollars per liter versus a little over $1 / liter in Thailand.  Oh well, now I have to start getting comfortable with the fact that I probably will never get as nice a bus in America as I experienced in Thailand.  Oh America! I’m coming home.

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