We've been with our friends Brad, Jane and Julie for the past few weeks seeing lots of Zambia from Livingstone, Chimpfunshi, our village, and Chisemwa Cha Lunda. Now headed for some R&R on lake Tanganyika before Brad and Jane continue their journey to Tanzania.
Here's what they wrote about our village:
We hitched in a semi-truck to Solwezi, took a bus to Mwinilunga, and
hired a cab to take us the 20 kilometers or so into the bush, to Scott
and Gina’s mud hut. What we found there was a sort of Swiss Family
Robinson ingeniuty / creative repurposing that was wildly interesting,
but not surprising if you know Scott and Gina well. They have created a
beautiful and welcoming home, complete with outdoor bathing room,
kitchen, chimbushi (hole in the ground) (toilet), garden, and storage
outbuilding (in the works). The lack of electricity, running water, and
most other modern conveniences has influenced the functional design of
their compound. I helped Scott with the storage building one day, mixing
water and clay from a hole and keeping him supplied with clay block for
the walls. It was really pretty similar to conventional masonry, but
much more difficult. Water conservation was critical, as all water must
come from the spring a good distance away. Jane and I fetched many
jerry-cans full, the journey took us over on hour each time, even with
the help of adorable village girls who liked to practice carrying the
cans on their head. The difficulty of the trip really increased our
appreciation of running water. Scott and Gina cooked us wonderful meals
each day over the brasier, a charcoal stove. Often ingredients came
from their garden, or were harvested locally and given to us by friendly
neighbors. We learned Lunda quickly and spoke it very frequently to
the super-friendly villagers. We learned most greetings, and had some
good conversations. Village life was great, with many ‘programs’ and
opportunities to interact with villagers. Jane was great at playing
games with the large groups of kids that constantly swarmed around her,
teaching them to write, or drawing with them. She helped during
childrens health week at the bare-bones village health clinic down the
road, where she assisted with measles vaccinations. Older children sat
bravely and waited for their shots as babies wailed and Jane helped
tally children who had and hadn’t recieved shots. It was a unique and
rare opportunity for children to recieve vaccinations. We went to
the school one day, and helped students write letters to students
in Jane’s US class. Finally it was time for Chisema Cha Lunda, the huge
festival celebrating Lunda culture. We had already been to meet the
chief, and he treated us very well, showing us around, joking with us,
and playing traditional drums. We arrived at his palace after a
lunatic transport, which I shall someday describe, but will here omit,
to speed the story. That evening chief Kanongesha toured us around his
palace grounds, and his ceremonial grounds, and bought us wine to drink
with dinner. The crowd of thousands was drunken with excitement, or by
more traditional means, or both. We were served dinner with his
excellency, and treated to a wide vartiety of beverages. We stayed in
our tents in an area fencesd with tall grasses, and the sounds of the
festival quited only between 6:00 and 6:15 AM. The vice-president of
Zambia, Guy Scott, flew in on his helicopter to the even, and we shook
his hand in greeting. Cheif Kanongesha took his seat in his
throne/chariot, was lifted on several shoulders, and was carried amidst a
dancing, drumming, singing groups of costumed men toward the ceremonial
grounds. Behind the dancers walked a group of dignitaries, including
other chiefs, government officials, and generally influencial people.
The chief waved his tasseld and axe, and the ceremony began with his
entrance, a grand circumnavigation of the grounds. There were many
poorly amplified speeches, dancing, drumming, and singing in traditional
costume, and even a sacrifice of a goat. I bought an enormous,
intricate carving depicting the ceremony for 80,000 kwacha, or 16
dollars. It will likely cost ten times that amount to ship home. The
festival was very fun, but we had to attend to our travels, so we
convinced a lone driver to transport us and a few other peace-corps
volunteers to a city in our direction of travel, Solwezi.
They're doing a much better job with blogs/pictures than us, so here's a link to their blog:
http://brad-jane.tumblr.com/
We'll write more during or after our travels!
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