Gina's Post
Peace Corps Zambia encourages us to finalize a resume before
we finish service so we can best turn some of the work we did here into marketable
skills in America. Since I had
lots of relevant work experience before coming to Zambia, the part on my resume
talking about Peace Corps is just a header and a few quick bullet points trying
to somehow connect what I did here with the labyrinth of paperwork and
insurance reimbursements that is the American medical system. I tried my best to fill in the 2 ½ year
gap and show that my work here in Zambia was somehow relevant to my career. Try as I might, the resume can never
truly encapsulate my Zambian experience, so I’ll try my best in this post.
So what did you do
in Zambia?
In Zambia I got dirty.
Really dirty. I got caked
with mud while biking in the rainy season, and covered in a layer of fine dust
while riding in the back of flatbed trucks on multiple occasions during the dry season. I breathed air so dirty that my
snot turned black. I went hours
without washing my hands because running water entails running to the nearest
river to bathe, or pouring cupfuls of warm water heated by fire over my body.
I lived in, around, and for nature. I woke to the sounds of birds chirping,
villagers singing, and light peeking through a grass roof and measured time by
following the sun’s path in the sky. I grew some of my own food. I anxiously anticipated the
first rains like all of my neighbors and anxiously waited for them to stop
whenever a torrential downpour would turn the front of our house into a lake. I realized that
brilliantly-colored insects and lizards were a part of daily life. I noticed more shooting stars than I’ve
ever seen in my life and bathed in moonlight as it filled the village with
children’s playful laughter when the moon decided to be full.
I rode my bike.
A lot. I rode to huts and
villages unreachable by car or even motorcycle just to help with an outreach
clinic. I rode my bike to hidden
waterfalls and on abandoned bush paths.
I rode my bike with flat tires and broken rims and gears that wouldn’t
shift and 50 lb. sacks of chicken feed strapped to the back, dodging pigs and
goats along the way. I rode long
distances on crappy dirt roads just to see another Peace Corps volunteer or
check the mail, and then rode back, ecstatic, with the package tied to the back
with an old piece of rubber tire.
I made friends with people who gave me a different
perspective on life. I befriended
religious leaders, subsistence farmers, grade school dropouts, and single
mothers. I listened to
stories of people living with HIV and people who lived through watching several
of their children die and people who gave birth to twins in the bush . . .
alone, and people who were gay but afraid of sharing for fear of imprisonment. I listened to stories of people who
hunted elephants for food before they all disappeared from the area.
I played with kids.
I made kids fetch me water and sweep my yard in exchange for my
attention (and sometimes a sweetie).
I taught kids how to read and how to hold a pencil and how to string
necklaces made from cut-up straws. I made some kids cry just by looking at them because
they had never seen a white person. I was constantly asked how many children I
had, and given looks of astonishment when I told people I had none. I weighed babies . . . lots of them. I carried babies
on my back and got peed on by babies wearing rags instead of diapers and
palpated unborn babies inside their mothers’ bellies. I named babies and saw babies being born. I watched babies die from malaria and
childbirth complications, wishing there was something more I could do but knowing
that there wasn’t.
I learned to cook on a charcoal brazier and how you can’t
just turn down the heat or click the next burner on. I learned to stir and make that crazy gumlike substance
called cassava nshima until the ladies knew I cooked “well” for my
husband. I ate bush rat,
caterpillars, termites with their wings removed, unidentifiable bush meat, wild
greens and slimy reddish plantlike substances that others cooked for me, and in
turn, taught people to make pumpkin bread and banana bread and goat cheese.
I got sick. I
pooped my pants . . . several times.
I had upper respiratory infections, malaria, a broken toe and egg sacs
squeezed out of my feet. But
through it all, I felt stronger and more alive in my skin than I ever had
before.
I prayed, and I danced, and I sang, but maybe not in that
order. I prayed in unison at
church when the whole congregation got on their knees and asked God to be
generous to their families. I
prayed for my life whenever I got onto a Zambian vehicle. I silently prayed in gratitude when I
woke up in the morning just to acknowledge the sun was out or as I was biking
through an amazing floodplain, taking in the scenery. I danced with women when children were born or young ladies
were initiated. I danced with a
chieftainess, and drunk men and people in traditional masks half the size of
their bodies. I danced the night
away in Zambian nightclubs, and I cranked out songs like “Grease Lightning” on
my ipod to dance with the village kids.
I danced the hokey pokey just to show villagers what it was all about. I sang the eerie wailing pitches that
women sing when their neighbor dies.
I sang for joy the best Lunda I could with ululating choruses of women
and in English when the Lunda just didn’t come out quite right.
I read by candlelight and jumped for joy when cell phone
service actually came and I didn’t have to climb an anthill anymore just to
send a message. I wore clothes
that didn’t match (though always below the knee!) and had my hair cut by anyone
who had a scissors and was willing.
I drank wine out of a box, Congolese beer, and village homebrew,
depending on the occasion.
I got asked for lots of things on many occasions: money,
medicine, food, books, biscuits, juice, clothes, my hand in marriage (didn’t
matter to them I was already married), an ambulance, my bicycle, a passport to
America. But, despite all the
asking, I was offered so much more by people who have so much less: nshima and greens when there was barely
enough to feed the family, a free ride when fuel prices reached record highs,
hot water for bathing and a place to stay when I was tired (even if it meant a
family of four sharing one bed for the night), words of wisdom and
encouragement, and abundant joyful songs and smiles.
I laughed a lot, cried a lot, thought a lot, wrote a
lot. I experienced fear, bliss,
and felt every emotion on the spectrum a thousand times over. I tackled difficult questions about
life and purpose and become closer than ever to the man I love and my life
partner. I learned a different way to be in the world. I learned that life is
short, and life is beautiful, and really deep down we’re all the same, and
that’s what Peace Corps is all about, isn’t it?
So what did you do in Zambia?
Thank you for sharing and giving us outsiders a look in to life in Zambia. It sounds like a challenging way of life to choose, giving up all the comforts of our western lifestyle, and I am so impressed by your strength and commitment.
ReplyDeleteI am sorry that we did not make it down to visit y'all while we were on the same side of the Atlantic. As we prepare to move back to the PNW next week, I know that my experiences in the last two years have changed me and I wonder if I could have withstood all the challenges that you have faced in Zambia.
Hope to see you soon in Washington!